Each Rose has its thorns. Yeah, I’m a disciple of the 80’s… So what! However Brett Michaels obtained it proper. Each paint system has its quirks. There are delicate variations in mixtures, dry instances, and different idiosyncrasies that give us a studying curve to be absorbed. Such can be the case with the New Eastwokod Low VOC Basecoat Clear coat paint system. That is the paint system used on JADED, not solely the topcoats, however all of the coatings on the automobile so I wished to share a few of the tweaks I discovered that helped me get a world class end on what has turned out to be a very fashionable automobile. After media blasting, I used the 1-1 Epoxy (Black) to stop flash rusting whereas bodywork went on.
Contour fillers had been used to form the surfaces after steel substitute, after which Contour Polyester primer-surfacer was sprayed on for blocking, repriming, blocking, repriming, blocking, repriming, blocking, and repriming till the physique was straight, flat and prepared for paint.
A VERY necessary factor to recollect with Contour Polyester floor is to shake the dwelling daylights out of it. Poly has tons of talc and filler, and it settles rapidly. When this product sits on the shelf it settles to the underside of the can, and if it’s not shaken A LOT it separates and also you’ll be spraying a weak mixture of the product for the primary few quarts, after which thick pea-soup for the final couple. Regardless, when the combination is incorrect, you’re not getting the total good thing about a poly-primer, which is a VERY thick, fats coating that received’t shrink, and will be blocked to perfection with out threat of mapping via your topcoats. It’s what I and lots of critical automobile builders and restoration retailers depend on for a long-lasting and excellent end.
Contour poly suggestions:
1.) All the time shake your can!
2.) Use a sharpie to mark right mixture of catalyst.
(If the air temp is over 90 levels, reduce your catalyst in half and provides additional dry time. It might probably kick within the cup and mess up your day.)
3.) Use Four fats coats max, block and reprime if needed. even with poly, extreme movie construct in a single coating can crack. A number of re-primes after blocking are a lot better, and safer.
4.) Dimension issues! Use a 2.zero fluid tip or bigger.
5.) Concours has a number of (inexpensive) fluid suggestions that make it a really versatile gun.
6.) If it’s a must to compensate for a smaller fluid tip, you should utilize acetone to skinny the poly and alter the viscosity to a extra sprayable kind. Be mindful, that you must permit the acetone to evaporate, so prolong your dry and remedy instances.
2-Okay urethane surfacer:
Eastwood’s 2K Urethane Primer sands a lot simpler than poly. I like to make use of 2K over poly to have a pleasant product to final-sand. It simply appears to love 400 to 600 grit, has higher surfacing, and admittedly, it’s simpler to prep for topcoats than poly Remember that that you must stick with not more than three coats in a priming session. Urethane floor wants 90 days to completely remedy. So should you stack it time and again, you possibly can expertise shrinking of the surfacer and that may map via your topcoats. Use a 1.6 or 1.eight fluid tip. This product is thick, and desires a big orifice to go via.
Low VOC basecoat:
It is a catalyzed basecoat system. That is good! Catalyst permits the basecoat to CHEMICALLY bond with the clear on high of it, and actually locks it collectively, eliminating delamination or separation over time. It is a Four to 1 ratio, with no reducer. It’s a straightforward combine.
Backside line, that is good system! Listed here are a few suggestions:
Use a bigger 1.Four fluid tip, particularly with metallic colours. This offers your atomized droplets a bigger dimension, and permits the micas and metallics to “self-orient” and lay in a pure and constant sample. Use a distribution coat on the final coat. Drop your strain in half, and double the gun distance to the floor. Spray the distribution coat instantly after your final coat whereas the bottom continues to be moist. This permits the bottom colour to settle into the underlying coat and the bigger droplets will, once more, assist the metallic particles, and distribution. Stable colours don’t want a distribution coat.
I discovered that utilizing a 1.Three fluid tip works nicely with this clear. HOWEVER, I discovered that it tended to dry rapidly and die again, shedding a few of the gloss. I mounted this with Eastwood Urethane Reducer Sluggish and including an additional half-part, making it a 2-1-1/2 combine. 2 components clear, one half catalyst, and one half half reducer. This allowed nice flowout, and solved the issue of dulling. Having stated all of that, I exploit the strategy of movement coating. That is while you coat your panels, then sand them flat with 600 grit, then coat them once more with a barely slower reducer. This lets the clear “self stage” like BUTTAH! Giving it a mirror end that takes nearly no aggressive colorsanding to essentially give the panels a show-car end.
Sanding and Buffing
There’s no disgrace in buffing your paint job! Each car from each automobile manufacturing unit goes via some type of refining course of to get rid of floor defects. Sanding a complete car flat is an excessive instance, however a really efficient instrument to refine ones end. I exploit Norton’s “LIQUID ICE” system, one compound and three pads. This method works very nicely, and because it’s water primarily based, it’s straightforward to wash up and rinse out of crevices, even when it’s absolutely dry. The system makes use of a wool pad to begin, a blue pad for the medium grade reduce, and eventually a white ultrafine pad for remaining buffing. I observe up with an orbital buffer to get rid of swirls, and hand glaze afterwards to finesse the floor.
My sanding recipe is as follows.
1000 grit to begin. stage the floor, utterly dulling it
1500 to get rid of the 1000 grit scratches
2000 to get rid of the 1500 grit
3000 to offer a really good floor to buff to full gloss, which occurs in a short time
Backside line. This paint system is superb! The bonus is that it’s additionally fairly cheap. I’m proudy to have used Eastwood merchandise on JADED. The proof is within the pudding, and I do know that I can get repeatable outcomes with the identical low price. I’m going to DRIVE this automobile. And I’m not afraid of a bit Street Rash!! In any case, there’s extra paint within the can! See ya on the street!!